Sew a zipper without using a zipper foot

Sew a Zipper without Using a Zipper Foot

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

Sewing a zipper is one of those tasks that seems incredibly hard, and like it would take a high level of skill. In reality, if you can sew a straight seam, you can sew a zipper!

Step One
Cut two rectangles measuring 1.5 inches wide by 3 inches tall. These will become the end zipper tabs to ensure you have perfect corners.

Step Two
Fold each end of the rectangle down, fabric is right side down, and iron.

Step Three
Fold your rectangles one more time, in half. Iron. You are now ready to sew the tabs to the end of the zipper.

Step Four
Instead of switching to a zipper foot, use your regular sewing foot. (I find it gives me more control, and has a better guide for me to use for sewing a straight line.) Change your needle position to 0 (this position should be closest to the left inside edge of your sewing foot).
Sew each tab to the each end of the zipper.

Step Five
Lay your zipper face down on the top edge of your exterior fabric with the right side facing the zipper teeth and the zipper pull farthest from the side you plan to start sewing. Center it. (You can pin, but I find it just as easy to hold with my fingers and adjust as necessary.)

Step Six
Line up your interior fabric, right side down, on top of the zipper and exterior fabric. You know have a zipper sandwich.

Step Seven
With needle still in the 0 position, sew a straight line across the top of your zipper sandwich. I find it helpful to use my left hand to keep track of the bump caused by the zipper teeth so my fabric doesn't shift during sewing. Stop when you near the zipper pull.

Step Eight
Lift your sewing foot, reach between your fabric sandwich, and unzip the zipper far enough so the zipper pull won't be in your way. Put your foot back down and continue sewing until you reach the end.

Step Nine
Open the fabrics you have just sewn so that the fabrics are wrong sides together. Iron your new seam.

Step 10
Top stitch by moving your needle position to 1 (or back to the middle of the foot). I like to use the top fold as my guide to ensure I sew a straight line. Top stitching is an important step (and an easy one to forget!) to make sure the fabric never gets caught in your zipper teeth.

Congratulations! You have completed one side of your zipper. Repeat steps four through ten to complete your first zipper.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave them in the comment section. If you'd like to see more of my sewing tips, follow me on Pinterest or check out my Etsy shop, Pop of Color Bags.

Happy Sewing!

Karla

How to Create Your Own Patterns for Sewing Purses

How to Create Your Own Patterns for Sewing Bags

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

Every woman has done it. Found a perfect purse in a department store, splurged on it, and after a few days of carrying it, you find yourself on the hunt for a new purse. The reason? You love the look of the bag, but it has too many pockets, not enough pockets, the zipper is hard to reach, etc. Each person has a specific idea of the perfect purse, and the only way to get it is to make it or have it custom made.

I have an obsession with accessories. Every time I shop, I wind up in the handbag department. My love of bags and purses meant that I was always on the hunt for that mythical purse that solved all of my problems. I want to be organized, but I hate having a million pockets because I can't remember which pocket has my lip balm. I like a bag with structure, but don't want it to weigh a million pounds. My favorite bags have spunky linings - fabric that is unexpected by just looking at the outside.
I realized, I could have the perfect bag...if I made it. Since I can sew, I stopped looking in department stores and started haunting the fabric stores for my perfect purse.

1. Identify a problem you would like to solve.

I am currently in love with the look of layering textures with an eye on fall fashion. I layer a lot of different patterns, and even some different textured fabrics with my purses, but none of them scream, "Autumn!" My problem is that I want that chunky layer look. I want a purse that can transition from fall to winter, have a boho eclectic style, and be something that is different.

2. Choose a geometric shape for the exterior.

Okay, I lied a little when I said create your own pattern. When I think of a pattern, I think of the flimsy trace paper. That's not what I mean by pattern - I pattern by using a geometric shape I can recreate just by measuring. This means no pattern weights, tracing, or trying to refold those huge sheets of weird shapes!
My favorite type of purse is a wristlet. I'm going to use the rectangular shape to build an autumn, boho eclectic purse. I would like it to be 12" wide and 6.5" tall so I'll cut my rectangles 13" x 7".

3. Choose your fabrics.

I want a layered fall look, so I decide to cut up a scarf I crocheted. (I'm not totally sure this will work, but that is what step 6 is for!)

To layer, I have 27" of embroidered jacquard ribbon that I've been dying to use. Sewing the trim directly onto the crocheted yarn seems like it will give it a lumpy look, so I'm choosing an oilcloth fabric as a top layer. (This also allows me to attach a zipper without worrying about sewing it to the crochet piece). 

And my final exterior selection is meant to add a flair of Boho - I'm adding a tassel trim to the bottom of the oilcloth to help transition from fabric to the crochet piece.

For the interior, I'm using outdoor fabric because it will hold its shape, which will be important for the crochet scarf piece.

4. Decide steps to sew.

Adding decorative trim is easier when there is less bulk, so I decide to start with attaching the tassels to the oilcloth. Next, I sew on the jacquard ribbon trim.

Because the scarf has fraying ends, I want to add it last so it's not handled as much. So I take the oilcloth with added trim, and the interior fabric, and sew the zipper. I also will use a leftover piece of the jacquard ribbon as my d-ring attachment for a wrist strap.

I then attach the crochet piece to the oilcloth, and can finish the bag by sewing all of the edges as normal.

5. Sew!

I make a note in my sketch book that the next time I try this, I would like to top stitch the crochet pieces to a piece of sturdy fabric to give it more shape. I would also crochet rectangles so I wouldn't have to worry about unfinished edges or unraveling. Otherwise, I would make it the same way.

6. Test.

Because I make purses for my Etsy shop, Pop of Color Bags, I always make a bag for myself to test for a few weeks before I reproduce the design for my shop. In this way, I can find the flaws, or refine the function of the bag.

Have an idea for your perfect purse, but not sure how to proceed? Leave a comment or question and I'll be glad to lend my sewing expertise to help you design your perfect purse. Or, feel free to visit my Etsy shop and I'll happily custom make your perfect bag!

Tips for Layering Clothes

Tips for Layering Clothes

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

I have to admit that I'm no longer so young, and part of aging is a rising body temperature (at least in my experience!) I love the look of layering, but I find myself quickly shedding the layers, and at the end of the day, I'm wearing just the basics.

So, how do you layer without adding warmth? You go for the idea of layers, without actually adding a ton of clothes! Think about it. The eye perceives layers because of the different fabrics, prints, and textures - not the bulkiness.

Use websites like www.shoplook.io to find ideas. 

Start with a basic (lightweight for me!) dress. Then add a ruana for texture and contrast. A ruana/kimono/cardigan/blazer/scarf are perfect additions for camouflaging body parts you may be self conscious about and most are open so that you are not adding warmth. Your shoes become your next layer - they can provide an interesting contrast in pattern, texture, or a pop of color.

Your last layer is the lightest: layering jewelry and a hand bag to complete the look. I'm not saying to layer so much jewelry that you are mistaken for Mr. T., but wearing a few mismatch bracelets, 2 necklaces, or even 2 kinds of dangling earrings gives the layering effect a boost. My favorite layer is the hand bag layer because it is a functional part of your outfit, but doesn't add any bulk or warmth to your clothes.

Have tips to add to this blog? Great! Leave a comment!

Ridiculously Easy Way to Sew a Straight Seam EVERY time!

Ridiculously Easy Way to Sew a Straight Seam EVERY time!

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

You're going to think, well, duh, after reading these 3 ridiculously easy tips to sew a straight seam every time. But, I've seen enough sewing hacks on Pinterest Pins to know that not everyone understands the KISS principle. (Don't believe me? Look it up - you'll find a magnetic guide sewing foot, washi tape, and rubber-band suggestions.)

1. Cut straight lines

I'll be honest. It took me awhile to invest in a cutting mat and rotary cutter. "I had sharp scissors and am good at reading a ruler. I don't need all the fancy extras!" was my thinking. Boy, was I wrong!
Everything I made was a slightly different size, and was slightly angled. Cutting with scissors, even if you measure and mark a few spots along your cutting line, will never be as precise as using a rotary cutter. Do yourself a favor and spend a few dollars to get a rotary cutter, mat, and long ruler!

2. Iron straight folds

Once again, this seems like a no brainer, but we've all made that mistake. Ironing a crease for a zipper, hem, what have you, and it slopes a little. You figure you'll go ahead and sew, and if you sew a straight line, no one will ever know you ironed a little crooked. And what happens? Your seam is straight, but slopes! A hot hemmer is a great tool to help you iron straight folds. You can find it at fabric stores or on Amazon.

3. Use your foot as the guide

Always use the same spot on the foot, and change needle position for increased seam allowances.

Being consistent with where I place my foot
as my guide,I can get the same seam allowance
as well as get a straight seam, every time!

I always use the edge of the clear plastic/
inside edge of metal foot as my guide.