Sew a zipper without using a zipper foot

Sew a Zipper without Using a Zipper Foot

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

Sewing a zipper is one of those tasks that seems incredibly hard, and like it would take a high level of skill. In reality, if you can sew a straight seam, you can sew a zipper!

Step One
Cut two rectangles measuring 1.5 inches wide by 3 inches tall. These will become the end zipper tabs to ensure you have perfect corners.

Step Two
Fold each end of the rectangle down, fabric is right side down, and iron.

Step Three
Fold your rectangles one more time, in half. Iron. You are now ready to sew the tabs to the end of the zipper.

Step Four
Instead of switching to a zipper foot, use your regular sewing foot. (I find it gives me more control, and has a better guide for me to use for sewing a straight line.) Change your needle position to 0 (this position should be closest to the left inside edge of your sewing foot).
Sew each tab to the each end of the zipper.

Step Five
Lay your zipper face down on the top edge of your exterior fabric with the right side facing the zipper teeth and the zipper pull farthest from the side you plan to start sewing. Center it. (You can pin, but I find it just as easy to hold with my fingers and adjust as necessary.)

Step Six
Line up your interior fabric, right side down, on top of the zipper and exterior fabric. You know have a zipper sandwich.

Step Seven
With needle still in the 0 position, sew a straight line across the top of your zipper sandwich. I find it helpful to use my left hand to keep track of the bump caused by the zipper teeth so my fabric doesn't shift during sewing. Stop when you near the zipper pull.

Step Eight
Lift your sewing foot, reach between your fabric sandwich, and unzip the zipper far enough so the zipper pull won't be in your way. Put your foot back down and continue sewing until you reach the end.

Step Nine
Open the fabrics you have just sewn so that the fabrics are wrong sides together. Iron your new seam.

Step 10
Top stitch by moving your needle position to 1 (or back to the middle of the foot). I like to use the top fold as my guide to ensure I sew a straight line. Top stitching is an important step (and an easy one to forget!) to make sure the fabric never gets caught in your zipper teeth.

Congratulations! You have completed one side of your zipper. Repeat steps four through ten to complete your first zipper.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave them in the comment section. If you'd like to see more of my sewing tips, follow me on Pinterest or check out my Etsy shop, Pop of Color Bags.

Happy Sewing!

Karla