How to Sew Shoulder Bag

Step by Step Tutorial for Sewing a Shoulder Bag 

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

I love to carry and sew a wristlet clutch or tote bag. I've made hundreds of each style of purse, and my customers frequently ask for a happy middle ground - a shoulder bag. For some reason, my shoulder bags end up looking more like a tote bag in size than a shoulder purse, so I've been experimenting with dimensions and a new pattern to create the perfect shoulder bag.

Materials:
4 -  13" x 15" rectangles (I like to use coordinating fabric, 2 rectangles for the exterior and 2 rectangles for the interior fabric.
2 - 1" d-rings
2 - 4" by 3" fabric rectangles for the d-rings
2 - 1" lobster claw rings for purse handle
1 - 20" by 3" wide rectangle for fabric handle



Steps:

1. Cut out fabric rectangles. I like to use a plate to add an armhole curve. Simply fold your 4 fabric rectangles in half, and use your rotary cutter to trace around the plate at the desired curve depth.

When you open the fabric, you'll see a bump where the curves meet. Simply use fabric scissors to even it out.

After you even out your curve, it should look like this.

2. To have boxed corners, simply cut a 1" by 1" square
out of the bottom corners of your fabric rectangles.

3. With right sides together, sew seams along the exterior fabric on the wrong side.

4. Box the corners by aligning your side and bottom
seams in the 1" by 1" cutouts in the corners.

5. Fold and iron your d-ring attachment pieces.
(I chose to use cork fabric since I don't need to finish the edges.)

6. Fold and iron your handle. Sew a straight seam along
one edge. (I chose to cut a 16" long rectangle so I could
use cork to accent the ends of the handle.)

7. Add a slip pocket by sewing a rectangle and
placing it on the right side of the interior fabric.

8. Sew side and bottom seams of your interior fabric.
Make sure to leave 4" along the bottom edge to turn your bag.
Box the corners before you turn the fabric right side out.

12. Turn interior of the bag right side out. Place it inside
of the exterior bag so that right sides are together. Pin the
d-ring handle attachment to the sides with the d-ring
hanging down inside the sandwiched bags.13. Sew the bottom hole in the interior bag closed by simply folding unfinished edges
in and sewing a straight seam to close.

14.  Top stitch along the edge of the purse.
Attach your purse handle and you're finished!

Happy Sewing!
Karla

Tried this yourself? Leave a photo of your purse!
Like the look and want to buy it? Go to Pop of Color Bags.

Animal Print Collection

Animal Print Purses and Bags Collection

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

Animal prints are such a fun neutral trend! I scoffed at the new trend the first time I saw a cheetah print top at J Crew's. The second time I was shopping and saw a dress with the print, I tried it on for fun. And realized it is super fun! It's hard not to feel spunky dressed in animal print - I dare you to try.

When I ran across fabric at Joann's in animal print, I knew I had to try to make a bag. Some of the prints are more geometric, some are neutral in color, but there is something for everyone.

Eclectic Envelope Clutch Wristlet

Mixed Patterns and Prints Wristlet Clutch

Envelope Clutch with Hand Strap in Zebra Print

Animal Print Hand Strap Clutch

Happy Shopping!

How to Create Your Own Patterns for Sewing Purses

How to Create Your Own Patterns for Sewing Bags

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

Every woman has done it. Found a perfect purse in a department store, splurged on it, and after a few days of carrying it, you find yourself on the hunt for a new purse. The reason? You love the look of the bag, but it has too many pockets, not enough pockets, the zipper is hard to reach, etc. Each person has a specific idea of the perfect purse, and the only way to get it is to make it or have it custom made.

I have an obsession with accessories. Every time I shop, I wind up in the handbag department. My love of bags and purses meant that I was always on the hunt for that mythical purse that solved all of my problems. I want to be organized, but I hate having a million pockets because I can't remember which pocket has my lip balm. I like a bag with structure, but don't want it to weigh a million pounds. My favorite bags have spunky linings - fabric that is unexpected by just looking at the outside.
I realized, I could have the perfect bag...if I made it. Since I can sew, I stopped looking in department stores and started haunting the fabric stores for my perfect purse.

1. Identify a problem you would like to solve.

I am currently in love with the look of layering textures with an eye on fall fashion. I layer a lot of different patterns, and even some different textured fabrics with my purses, but none of them scream, "Autumn!" My problem is that I want that chunky layer look. I want a purse that can transition from fall to winter, have a boho eclectic style, and be something that is different.

2. Choose a geometric shape for the exterior.

Okay, I lied a little when I said create your own pattern. When I think of a pattern, I think of the flimsy trace paper. That's not what I mean by pattern - I pattern by using a geometric shape I can recreate just by measuring. This means no pattern weights, tracing, or trying to refold those huge sheets of weird shapes!
My favorite type of purse is a wristlet. I'm going to use the rectangular shape to build an autumn, boho eclectic purse. I would like it to be 12" wide and 6.5" tall so I'll cut my rectangles 13" x 7".

3. Choose your fabrics.

I want a layered fall look, so I decide to cut up a scarf I crocheted. (I'm not totally sure this will work, but that is what step 6 is for!)

To layer, I have 27" of embroidered jacquard ribbon that I've been dying to use. Sewing the trim directly onto the crocheted yarn seems like it will give it a lumpy look, so I'm choosing an oilcloth fabric as a top layer. (This also allows me to attach a zipper without worrying about sewing it to the crochet piece). 

And my final exterior selection is meant to add a flair of Boho - I'm adding a tassel trim to the bottom of the oilcloth to help transition from fabric to the crochet piece.

For the interior, I'm using outdoor fabric because it will hold its shape, which will be important for the crochet scarf piece.

4. Decide steps to sew.

Adding decorative trim is easier when there is less bulk, so I decide to start with attaching the tassels to the oilcloth. Next, I sew on the jacquard ribbon trim.

Because the scarf has fraying ends, I want to add it last so it's not handled as much. So I take the oilcloth with added trim, and the interior fabric, and sew the zipper. I also will use a leftover piece of the jacquard ribbon as my d-ring attachment for a wrist strap.

I then attach the crochet piece to the oilcloth, and can finish the bag by sewing all of the edges as normal.

5. Sew!

I make a note in my sketch book that the next time I try this, I would like to top stitch the crochet pieces to a piece of sturdy fabric to give it more shape. I would also crochet rectangles so I wouldn't have to worry about unfinished edges or unraveling. Otherwise, I would make it the same way.

6. Test.

Because I make purses for my Etsy shop, Pop of Color Bags, I always make a bag for myself to test for a few weeks before I reproduce the design for my shop. In this way, I can find the flaws, or refine the function of the bag.

Have an idea for your perfect purse, but not sure how to proceed? Leave a comment or question and I'll be glad to lend my sewing expertise to help you design your perfect purse. Or, feel free to visit my Etsy shop and I'll happily custom make your perfect bag!

Tips for Layering Clothes

Tips for Layering Clothes

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

I have to admit that I'm no longer so young, and part of aging is a rising body temperature (at least in my experience!) I love the look of layering, but I find myself quickly shedding the layers, and at the end of the day, I'm wearing just the basics.

So, how do you layer without adding warmth? You go for the idea of layers, without actually adding a ton of clothes! Think about it. The eye perceives layers because of the different fabrics, prints, and textures - not the bulkiness.

Use websites like www.shoplook.io to find ideas. 

Start with a basic (lightweight for me!) dress. Then add a ruana for texture and contrast. A ruana/kimono/cardigan/blazer/scarf are perfect additions for camouflaging body parts you may be self conscious about and most are open so that you are not adding warmth. Your shoes become your next layer - they can provide an interesting contrast in pattern, texture, or a pop of color.

Your last layer is the lightest: layering jewelry and a hand bag to complete the look. I'm not saying to layer so much jewelry that you are mistaken for Mr. T., but wearing a few mismatch bracelets, 2 necklaces, or even 2 kinds of dangling earrings gives the layering effect a boost. My favorite layer is the hand bag layer because it is a functional part of your outfit, but doesn't add any bulk or warmth to your clothes.

Have tips to add to this blog? Great! Leave a comment!

Ridiculously Easy Way to Sew a Straight Seam EVERY time!

Ridiculously Easy Way to Sew a Straight Seam EVERY time!

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

You're going to think, well, duh, after reading these 3 ridiculously easy tips to sew a straight seam every time. But, I've seen enough sewing hacks on Pinterest Pins to know that not everyone understands the KISS principle. (Don't believe me? Look it up - you'll find a magnetic guide sewing foot, washi tape, and rubber-band suggestions.)

1. Cut straight lines

I'll be honest. It took me awhile to invest in a cutting mat and rotary cutter. "I had sharp scissors and am good at reading a ruler. I don't need all the fancy extras!" was my thinking. Boy, was I wrong!
Everything I made was a slightly different size, and was slightly angled. Cutting with scissors, even if you measure and mark a few spots along your cutting line, will never be as precise as using a rotary cutter. Do yourself a favor and spend a few dollars to get a rotary cutter, mat, and long ruler!

2. Iron straight folds

Once again, this seems like a no brainer, but we've all made that mistake. Ironing a crease for a zipper, hem, what have you, and it slopes a little. You figure you'll go ahead and sew, and if you sew a straight line, no one will ever know you ironed a little crooked. And what happens? Your seam is straight, but slopes! A hot hemmer is a great tool to help you iron straight folds. You can find it at fabric stores or on Amazon.

3. Use your foot as the guide

Always use the same spot on the foot, and change needle position for increased seam allowances.

Being consistent with where I place my foot
as my guide,I can get the same seam allowance
as well as get a straight seam, every time!

I always use the edge of the clear plastic/
inside edge of metal foot as my guide. 

Tips for Buying Fabric for Sewing Bags and Purses

Tips for Buying Fabric for Sewing Bags and Purses

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

Choosing the right fabrics helps your bag look luxurious instead
of looking like a school craft project.

Take me to a fabric store and I'm like Augustus Gloop in Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory. I want everything! Sewing bags and purses that don't look homemade requires special considerations when choosing your fabrics. (It turns out I had so many tips, I decided to concentrate on the exterior purse fabric only in this blog).

1. Price per yard

I know, this is kind of cheating for a list about choosing a specialty fabric, but I do consider the price per yard when I am purchasing fabric. If I'm making a tote bag, it takes 1/2 yard for the outside of the bag. That means I can only make 2 totes out of one yard. I'm unwilling to pay more than $11 for a yard that can only make 2 bags. However, that specialty fabric that is $20 a yard for making wristlets? I can make 6 wristlets with that yard, so $20 isn't too bad of a deal. My general rule of thumb is to never pay more than $5.50 for the exterior fabric.

2. Weight of fabric

Upholstery fabric - notice how wristlet
stands on it's own with minimum sag.

The best thing about going to a fabric store is being able to touch all of the things! To me, weight is the feel of the fabric in your hand, not that the fabric is actually heavy. Depending on the type of bag you are sewing, you want your exterior fabric choice to give your bag structure and balance. A cotton print for quilting would never stand on it's own. It would wrinkle, sag, and show wear on the handles very quickly.
Upholstery fabric, utility fabrics (like cork fabric), vinyls (faux leather), oilcloths, outdoor fabric, and some home decor canvas fabrics are great choices for the outside of your bag.
While you want your exterior fabric to have weight, you don't want it to actually weigh a ton. Pick up the bolt you're considering, unroll it a few times, open it up, and take time to imagine what it would feel like when making a tote or wristlet. (This may seem silly, but I've made a tote bag that clocked in at 4 pounds before I added my wallet and items I carry in it).

This is one of my early coin purses.
I used a cotton calico print. Notice how
the key ring sags because the fabric does
not have the weight to hold it's shape?

Unrolling the bolt and opening up the fabric also lets you consider if the fabric is stiff enough to add structure. Some home decor canvases are almost like quilting cotton and are not good for exteriors of bags. *I do want to note that you can stiffen any fabric by using interfacing, but at $3.99 a yard for Pellon Craft Fuse, this gets expensive really fast. It's easier to just pick a fabric that won't need stiffening.
*A crossbody or hobo bag may not need much structure, so you can use a wider range of fabrics for these purses.

3. Feel of Fabric

A purse is meant to be carried - either by your hands or slung over a shoulder. You don't want

This upholstery fabric has velvet in the navy blue outlines
of the leaves. The cream fabric feels like really plush
carpet without the thick pile. Joann's Fabric $9 a yard.

something scratchy, you want something that feels luxurious. When you carry it, you want to feel like a million bucks, so choose a fabric you can pet. I love a buttery soft faux leather or micro suede bag. Natural Cork fabric is very smooth, as well. You can always layer a printed fabric on top of the exterior if you want more visual appeal.

4. Ability to Iron

This tip is not a deal breaker for me. It just means I'm more careful with how I use the fabric. If I'm using a faux leather vinyl for a tote bag exterior, I tend to not use the same material for the handles knowing that you can't pin leather, you can't iron it, and it's super hard to sew right sides together in a tube and try to turn the tube right side out. Think about the type of bag you are making, and the different steps. If you need to iron the fabric to help you sew straight, top stitch a zipper, or add embellishments, choose something else.
*And yes, I know I could use Wonder clips to pin my vinyl, but I need the iron to show me a straight line. If I fold and clip a strap, I end up with one end of the strap WAY wider than the other. I swear my eyesight is crooked!

5. Ease of Sewing

I love haunting the clearance section at Joann Fabrics for their upholstery and faux leather fabrics. Most are marked either $9 or $12 a yard, and you can use coupons on these cuts as well. Through trial and error, I've learned that some faux leather fabrics glide right under your machine foot, and others require me to use tissue paper between the foot and leather. Pulling tissue paper out of every stitch is NOT my idea of a good time!

Use tissue paper to top stitch faux leather that won't glide
under your machine foot. 

I like to tear off the tissue paper underneath my seam first. I
then cross my fingers and hope that pulling off the tissue
paper on top of the seam comes completely out without leaving
little bits behind. Any little bits stuck between stitches, I simply
use tweezers to pull out.

So, feel the fabric. If it is smooth and has that buttery texture, you are good to go. If you glide your hand across and it feels a little gummy, you'll need the tissue paper trick to sew any top stitching.

Thoughts? Leave them in the comment section! Interested in my finished pieces? Check them out at my #etsyshop Pop of Color Bags.

https://www.quikly.com/joannstores/s/mGXnzxgK

Tips for Creating High Fashion Homemade Bags and Purses

DIY High Fashion Homemade Bags and Purses

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

This blog idea stems from the fact that I have a shopping compulsion when it comes to bags and purses. I love the feel, design, and functionality of a good purse, but hate the price tag. I have never been one to buy a bag because of the brand - and paying $200 for a purse I am going to carry once or twice a month depending on the occasion and outfit I'm wearing - seems a little frivolous. (Not to mention the husband wouldn't enjoy working an extra year before retiring to help finance my compulsion!) I mean, who has ever seen a specific brand someone is carrying and said, "I really like your purse because it is Coach!" No one!
So, I started designing and sewing my own creations. Here's a list of the rules I use to create a high fashion homemade bag.

Tip #1. Mix prints with textured fabric to create a luxurious feel.

A textured fabric gives an expensive feel. Think about your bed sheets. Those ones you had in college were super scratchy. As you have gotten older, you most likely buy your sheets by feeling for silkiness and thread count. The same concept goes for the outside fabric of your purse. If it feels high end, it will look expensive.

The top picture is a Modern Chevron print paired with a woven blue outdoor fabric. Neither fabrics were expensive, but the look of the thick woven strands is highlighted by the chevron print, making the weave more pronounced.

In the second picture, I used a faux leather as the base for this wristlet clutch. I chose this fabric because it is buttery smooth and pliant. It feels like a very expensive leather jacket, but is a fraction of the price (I paid $9 a yard plus 20% off my total purchase at Joann Fabric's for this faux leather.) Pairing the leather with the coral colors helps to bring out the rich brown, making the bag radiate luxury.

Tip #2. Choose a fabric with weight.

"Wait. I don't want my purse to be heavy - I have to lug it around!" I know that is what you are thinking, but there is a difference in weight and heavy when it comes to fabrics. In fact, this wristlet clutch weighs in at 3.7 ounces. However, the woven upholstery fabric is thicker and makes the bag feel like it has some heft without actually adding weight. When you hold a bag, like a clutch, in your hand, you don't want it to feel like paper. You want it to have a little weight so you know it is constructed with durability and fibers carefully woven into the fabric. (This upholstery fabric was $9 a yard with 30% off since it was in the clearance section at Joann's Fabric.)

Tip #3. Add an unexpected element.

 

 A bow hand strap clutch isn't something you see everyday. The uniqueness adds the designer feel, and exclusivity is a mark of high fashion. In addition to the bow hand strap, I used cork fabric. Cork fabric is one of the latest trends because it is eco-friendly, durable, and water proof. 

Paying attention to the small details is your chance to show off your creativity. A tote bag generally has a rectangular shape, boxed corners, and two straps. You can't change much about that, but you can add a leather loop and coconut button closure. This detail shows the time you took to execute even the smallest detail, making sure it is pretty and functional.

Tip #4. Pay attention to details from every angle.

The beauty of making your own purse is the fact you get to pick the fabric to match your mood/outfits/personal style. A purse needs to have interest from every angle to show the thought you put into creating it. One side of this Hand Strap Clutch is a tropical South American theme with the flower and parrot. The other side has palms, a tropical flower, and a riveted natural cork hand strap. No matter which way you are holding the purse, using the hand strap or wrist strap, there is a powerful image to view.

High fashion is about the power of an image. Taking time to examine your bag from every angle reflects the thought and craftsmanship of building a purse that is truly an accessory instead of just a necessity.

Tip #5. Show off your craftsmanship!

Those designer purses everyone craves come with a hefty price tag because of the quality of the materials and craftsmanship of the manufacturing. You can do the same on a budget! It's not the fact that I used a coupon and sale at Joann's fabric to pick up the natural cork fabric for $6.99 a yard. It's the fact that I sewed straight seams, have flat corners at the top, and double stitched every interior seam. This wristlet clutch is meant to last!

Taking time to line a toile with matching tassels highlights the print and shows off my sewing skills. When I get compliments on my handmade bag and I tell people I made it, I love to hear the exclamations as they take a closer look - people are always amazed it is possible to sew a bag that looks like you could buy it in a store.





Like any of the bags and purses you see? Check out these and my other designs at Pop of Color Bags!

Have more ideas to add to this blog? Please leave a comment 😁

Sewing Bags and Purses: A Neglected Niche

Why You Should be Sewing Bags and Purses

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

The Background

Yes, I can sew clothes. In fact, that is how I learned to sew - participating in 4-H fashion shows in outfits made from patterns. I don't sew many clothes for myself for two simple reasons: 1. I gain and lose weight like it's a competition and I'm going for gold. 2. It's more expensive than hitting up Old Navy during a sale.

During my first year of teaching in Durham, NC, I met a fiery teacher with the most outrageous (and enviable) shoe collection I've ever seen. It was definitely her signature. I asked her what led to such an unusual collection. Her response has stuck with me 17 years later - "I lived in Japan for a while. As a plus sized girl, the only thing that ever fit were the shoes." That comment led to my shopping philosophy. Never invest too much in one piece of clothing because size and fashion changes. A purse or shoes always fit!

I have a very eclectic fashion sense. I like to stand in front of the mirror in the morning, gauging if my outfit is ready for the world. I ask myself, "Is this too much, or just enough?" If I gauge my outfit as too much, I change something about it. If I gauge it as just enough crazy, in my opinion, that means it's an 11 out of 10 on the crazy scale, I know it's going to be a good day. I can pick up print tops and bottoms for way less than it takes to make them. I also believe it takes an artist to be able to mix and match prints and patterns so they look like they belong together and I want to show my skills in separates rather than sewing a dress with the same mash up.

Why you should be sewing bags and purses

Think about the outfit you wear which brings the most compliments. It's most likely not all one color and mass produced. Everyone around you isn't wearing the same exact outfit with the same exact jewelry. What makes the outfit compliment worthy? It reflects your individuality! So why do we settle for mass produced, look alike purses? We shouldn't!

My next reason is purely financial. I do most of my fabric shopping at Joann's - taking advantage of their sales and coupons. Plus, I can touch everything (the feel of the fabric helps me determine what I'll be able to do with it. A description on a website is not quite the same as seeing it in person!) If I want to make an above the knee, short sleeve swing dress, I would need close to 2 yards of fabric. Even on sale, I'm going to pay more than $10/yd. So, the dress would cost me $20 and a few hours.

Let's say I use the same fabric as pictured and decide to make wristlets measuring 10" x 6.5" x 0.5" instead. A yard would yield 4 bags, including pockets and a detachable wrist strap. I would also have a few scraps leftover to use for small coin pouches or these adorable wallets. Financially, it is more cost effective to sew a bag versus an article of clothing.

Convinced?

My sewing blog is dedicated to the styles and fashions of diy bags and purses. Join me on my adventures into creativity and help this niche shine! 

Want to see more of my work? Head on over to Pop of Color Bags or check out another sewing tutorial.

Hand Strap Clutch Wristlet

Why You Should Be Carrying a Hand Strap Clutch Wristlet

by Karla Fidoe (owner and maker of Pop of Color Bags)

Every woman has a few purses in her closet. One is for those days where you feel like you have a thousand things to carry. One is for everyday use - that comfortable bag you fall back on to run errands, shop, and go to work. And then we all have that special purse, the one for going out, weddings, or travel.

The Hand Strap Clutch can't help with those days where you need a tote bag for carrying snacks, changes of clothes, first aid supplies, what have you. But, the Hand Strap Clutch can replace your everyday bag and special purse. Let me tell you why.

Depending on your needs, a hand strap clutch wristlet can be made in many different sizes - from the width of your hand to an oversized clutch that measures 13" x 9". This takes care of most women's purse size needs. 

Depending on your casual wear, there are different options for the hand strap clutch. A straight forward strap pairs best with women who wear athleisure clothes on most days. A bow hand strap clutch works for those whose casual wear is more office appropriate or jeans. However, depending on your personality, you can make either style work for your everyday purse.

Now, for special occasions, the same hand strap clutch works. The hand strap becomes an extra piece of jewelry, rather than just a purse. It dresses up well - you can imagine yourself going out, attending a wedding, seeing a play, to a concert, anything! 

Okay, so I've convinced you that the look of the hand strap clutch fits into every event you may need it for. Now, what else makes it the "go to bag"? The bag is designed to be light and well balanced, but still have structure. It is meant to cradle between your fingers and palm, and the weight is distributed between your hand and the strap around your wrist.  Need an extra hand for carrying drinks? Simply slide the wrist strap further up your arm to free your hand. You can also use the optional wrist strap for those moments where you need both hands for something larger to hold.

Any outfit, any occasion, and any clothing style works for a hand strap clutch. It's eye catching, unusual, and sure to receive compliments. Find your Hand Strap Clutch at Pop of Color Bags.